I’m a convert

Argentina is internationally known for tango, but being stubborn and preferring more energetic latin music, I was pretty certain I wouldn’t like it (neither the dance nor the music). I’ve seen videos of famous dancers and although it can be fascinating to watch, I never felt inspired to learn. In the second week I was here, another traveler was trying to convince a group to go see Orquesta típica de Fernandez Fierro, and the audio samples she played for us sounded so excessively melodramatic, and not “my style” of music.

Finally one night, deciding not to judge without trying, I agreed to accompany a friend to a milonga, the venue where tango and milonga (similar but a little faster) are danced. It was amazing. We attended the class at 10:30 before the regulars took the floor around midnight. About 30 minutes later two local bands composed entirely of 25-35 year olds playing violins, piano, stand-up bass, and bandeleon (an old-fashioned instrument similar to an accordion) started playing this incredibly melodramatic music. The place was packed. While there were a few older folks, I was fascinated by this young hip scene that is fed by this seemingly out-dated music. The second group, called Ciudad Baigón, included 2 young women among the violin players, 4 bandeleon players sitting in front, leaning over their instruments and allowing their entire lap to fall with the notes they played, and a short, lean singer with an enormous voice. This is a photo my friend Shaili took.Since then, I saw the same group play at the weekly San Telmo feria (piano and all rolled out into the street) and finally went to see Fernandez Fierro. This group of about 10 musicians plays in a weekly venue named after the group that is regularly filled with young Argentines and tourists from all over South America, North America, and Europe. A number of these musicians looked like rock stars with dread locks and wearing sunglasses (even though they were often playing in low or no lighting). I still have no business trying to dance to the music, but I’ve fallen head over heels for the music scene.